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Shoka 11/10/2018
Tested this with a set of soldering irons. 1) Hakko 936 style iron, (what it claims to be designed for). 2) T12 style handle, similar style to the Hakko design. 3) Lightweight T12 handle as shipped with some controller kits. 4) The iron from my trusty Union BP53 soldering station. I compared the various irons in the metal stand (this product), the stand for my Union soldering station, and a "no name, no spec" stand I have from ebay. The Union stand accepted all the irons, the irons were held stable, and the tips were clear of contact with anything. The Banggood stand could not accommodate the iron from my Union station, it is too large a diameter for the holder. The Hakko 936(alike ;), not a real Hakko) unsurprisingly fitted perfectly, and was held stable with the tip well clear of everything. The Hakko style T12 iron was stable, but the tip is a little longer than the 936 and contacted the metal end of the stand before the iron was fully in the holder. It was pretty stable though. Tried with several tips and all had the same issue. The lightweight T12 iron is significantly smaller diameter, and a very loose fit in the stand, and rattled about, but because the T12 tip fits much deeper into the handle than on the Hakko style, the tip was clear of all contact, whichever tip I put in it. The "ebay special" stand could not accept the Union iron, it was too big diameter. The Hakko style irons both fitted rather loosely, but the tips were clear of obstructions.. The lightweight T12 iron went right through the holder, was effectively unsupported. Conclusion: I plan to cut out a hole in the back of the holder to keep the tips of the T12 irons from contacting metal while in the holder. With that mod it looks suitable for most of my irons. I've not tested with Weller or Ayoye irons, too much effort to dig them out to test, but I expect the Weller to be pretty much similar to the Union iron, and thus this stand would not be suitable. The Ayoye iron is similar diameter to the lightweight T12 but has a longer tip, so would probably work, but need the same type of mods that I'm planning for the Hakko style T12. Summary works for most irons I've seen on Banggood, (except the TS100 and derivatives, they will go right through the holder). Its mostly metal, and everything in the area of the iron tips is metal, so should be fire safe. Could be 10mm or so longer at the back, to clear Hakko style T12's. .,
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Shoka 09/10/2018
The "new version" kit differs from the picture in the offer a couple of ways: 1) the calibration pot on the front of the board no longer exists. Not even tracking for it on the PCB. It is replaced, as far as I can tell, by a software calibration routine. Minor irritation as the case hardware I have purchased to go with this kit has a hole for access to the pot, and an engraved "cal" legend under the hole. 2) The "pcb board" for the internals of the soldering iron is now a different design, flat rather than three dimensional, as the picture. I'd have preferred the original version, the contacts seem more decisive. I've got examples of both types. The display did not line up exactly with the hole in the premade front panel I purchased to go with this kit. The issue would be resolved by a slightly larger cut out in the panel, positioned to accurately match the pcb location for the display, and with less rounding of the corners, the display has non rounded corners. Some work with a diamond file resolved the inconsistency at cost of some bright metal around the display cut out. The rotary encoder has a small tag, intended to engage with the front panel, and stop the rotary encoder turning. It is not needed in this installation, and interferes with mounting the PCB to the front panel.(The encoder is very firmly fitted to the board, and the tag surplus to requirements), I cut it off with a jewelers saw and filed it flush, so that the encoder mounts flush to the back of the front panel. The module powers up and correctly reports no iron connected.
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